Ups and Downs

I went to my second Zamba class today at pm with Hernan the professional folkloric/tango dancer. Today was focus on using the scarf. It was not easy–This technique looks simple when done by a master such as my teacher–but when u try–even when u are a good dancer already–it’s not so easy to coordinate with the Zamba step/choreography–and make the scarf look beautiful. But it’s worth the effort-when done well it’s just gorgeous to watch and a wonderful feeling to dance it. My last Zamba lesson is in one week-just before I go walkabout Argentina with friend Denna. So that was the “up” part. Then at 8pm back at Lunallena I had musicality class with a young couple teaching and several students. I needed to lead for the balance–and this was not easy tonight. My female partner -a latino and a little firey-started snapping instructions at me–tho she herself doesn’t lead at all–as if she knew what I should do to make the figure work. But she didn’t really. This set me on edge a bit as I was struggling to master the figure–When I danced with the teacher–it was nearly perfect–but back with the partner–not so much. “down” After this I went to El Motivo to see German and Luciana–I had a gift for Lucy’s child-4 yrs old. Lucy liked it a lot-some hand carved block print materials-farm animals. Hugging German at the door and his inviting me–meaning I didn’t have to pay the $50pesos. “up-up” I sat for a long while-not being invited to dance–“down” Then a youn g french woman came and asked me–she wants to lead–so with her leading “kinda downish-she wasn’t so clear or controlled and had a bit of body odor that I found offensive. Then I led a milonga-“upish”–well–milonga is my thing afterall. After that I was feeling more and more tired so I came home early. More sleep maybe tonite! “up”–I think?

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Holidays in AR: 1,2,3 Marzo

I am not sure why it’s a holiday time–but it”s Carnival they say- no school today and shops are closed-many anyway–same last 2 days. So Sat eve I went with Yvonne to shop for some party foods–planning her b-day party for Yesterday-Sabado-she’s 50 and has never had a birthday party til now! amazing. So then yesterday–Sunday morning I go out for the roasted chicken and a few more things. We made two salads-spinach and coleslaw with red cabbage–and also had cheeses and salami, olives etc-beer and wine -it was fun. She invited two lady friends she had met and I invited two guys who are n hotel here-Michael from Germany and Kurt from Bavaria and also my dear friend, Chino. We enjoyed a nice meal and then we had birthday dance for Yvonne–all the guys danced with her–then we all danced. At then end after everyone left-maybe 5pm-(we started at 2) and Yvonne went to rest–Kurt and I kept dancing until almost 7pm–he’s play some new song he liked–he uses in milongas as a dj–I would write it–all new to me–and then we would dance-very nuevo–I love it so much–I was so sorry he couldn’t come to dance in the evening–but he had to pack to leave today and rest. He was eager to get home to his new girlfriend–he’s so happy–like a teenager he said. Sweet.  I would love to dance wiht this guy again–maybe someday I will? One never knows in this crazy tango world. Anyway, I danced so much I wasn’t so disappointed to mostly watch at Viva La Pepa–I only dance with Chino–but the exhibition was worth the time–four women dancing with each other–four fabulous and evry different dances one was Carla Moran, I know–she was once Chino’s partner–then Ariadna Navierra–very famous and the best leader–I want to lead like her!!! And the other-one was Chino’s former last girlfriend–great dancer too–and the last I didn’t know–all great tho–just fabulous!  Also I go to see Nico for the first time this trip–he said his wife moved far away–he’s sad cuz is hard to see his son–and I also saw Bruno for the first time this trip–great hugging reunion! Love this guy. And I saw Denise from Portland–who I will meet for lunch on Friday–she’s here for 2 yrs! wow– . . . .so I missed saying bye to Kurt–but I will conenct via email. Lovely, lovely day! Gracious Senor!

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A Day in The Life

Tonite I saw Denise at the milonga–she is from Portlalnd–here for 2 yrs-
is 9 months into it–got an apt leased for the 2 yrs. We’ll have lunch Friday.
Today I gave a party for Yvonne-(she helped)-her 50th! She’s from Venezuela and never had a b-day party–so this was special-
Got roasted chicken–bread–we made salads–bought a cheesecake—wine and beer -all nice–
3 men-4 women-dancing to end the event here on the Lunallena dance floor–the 2 ladys who don’t dance normally were thrilled–had a ball—
After everyone left and I was cleaning up–one guy-Kurt from Hamburg lingered and continued to play
tunes I hadn’t heard–unusual stuff for milongas–and we danced and danced and danced–nuevo tango–
so much fun–I got v. tired while Yvone was napping–
But I woker her at 7:30ish/8–and we had a bite and went to the milonga–Viva La Peppa–my friend Chino organizes with Pepa who I also know–I only danced with CHino at end of evening-love that boy!
But the exhibition that night was mind blowing–4 women-partnering one another–four diff dances-all quite amazing–one a comedy!  A hoot!  Then as evening ended I saw Bruno –another teacher/friend who is like a bro to Chino–this was a huge hugging reunion–I was so happy to see him–and being a Latin man he knows what to say: “First-I want to say “sorry”—I sent him many messages in past 2 yrs and he’s not been very faithful in responding–BUT we are having lunch this week and I’ll hear why.–big back story I am sure. Then he says: “You look great–younger!” See!!!?
Then I also saw Nico–Nicolas Godoy–just briefly–he was the one I went to dance the benefit with three yrs ago.
It was nearly 3am by this time so we popped over to La Veruta–in a cab–it’s free after 3am-so this is a popular thing to do here— Yvonne met a friend and danced–and I led her in one milonga tanda–it was fun.  Now home in ur fancy suite–which we get for 1 extra nite because owner offered as a b-day present for Yvonne-4:30am-Do hope I sleep til noon.

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What Day is It Again?

Oh yes–Sabado–Saturday-So yesterday Yvonne moved in–I met her at the milonga at Villa Malcomb Thursday night–there werfe four of us ladies–Susanna and I planned to take class and do milonga but picked up Yvonne at the class and another lovely dark-haired Porteno. Then yesterday she came to visit an moved in with me in the big Queen suite. WE went to dance at La Veruta late last night–in fact at 11 they were still doing the classes–mucha hente!!OMG–finally it started over hr later–then played a lot of salsa-rock-bahata before finally starting tango. One guy was begging her to dance salso—she refuse–then begged me–I felt bad for him so I went to dance–a big mistake–the guy thought he knew what he was doing but NO–very srong–laughing–throwing me here and there–finally threw me to the floor! So embarrassing–BUT–I go on–“Thanks–that wll be enough” and I go to sit down. Sheesh.  Later a milonga plays and Yvone makes an exception to here rule of NOT dancing w/girls–and we dance–OMG-so much fun–and all the while I see people staring–smiling — . . .odd to see an old american lady dancing milonga like she knows what to do–hahahahahah. Later I lead Yvonee in rock–which she has no clue-and as we leave dance floor-two couples stop me anc tell me I dance very good. They ask “Argentina?”  I say–no–Ustado Unidos!–I’m from Oregon/  Then an amazing guy is asking me to dance–after the live orchestra starts—and we dance maybe 7-8 songs before he says–thanks—and we finish–After each song he says–Que lindo! And I just smile—I am having a ball—At one point he says–aha–nuevo–and I say–yes-I love it–and he says next Thursday—Electronica musica here–at Veruta-[-I am so there.  He comes back to dance the last song from th orchestra–and I am one Happy Tangobunny! Gracias, Senor!

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Slept late today-barely had time to wolf down a small yogurt before grabbing a taxi to Pichinchay Chile in a bario some distance away-

70 pesos worth which is about $7. and took about 35-40 minutes. I went to meet Hernan V. for a Zamba class–private. It was so good and worth more than the $35 american he asked.  He’s an amazing teacher and turns out he was first to do Zamba in the milongas here over ten yrs ago–He’s been pro folkloric dancer/teacher for 15 yrs–tango-10 yrs–he’s amazing ans very professional.  I’ll go again–Monday!

When I returned to Lunallena I moved into the suite at Ricarda’s invitation–for only $10 additional a night–a gratuity to compensate me for the grief of dozens of mosquito bites and no net initially —– it’s quite a nice change I must say–and I am pretending to be”The Queen” for four days! hahahahaha. Juan Carlos–who works here–and who I will help w/English–and I got a great laugh out of this.

I waited around a bit for German to get back to me—but he didn’t so finally went to eat LOMO at same place down street as I ate sushi the other night. Now I am a celebrity!  Even the owner, Martin, came to my table, introduced himself and chatted for a while–He said, Are u on hollidays?” I said, “I’m retired. I’m free and every day is a holiday.” He said, “I’m free too(and referred to his bare ring finger) two years now.”

This is what is fueling me this trip–the people—before I left the restaurant I had pics with Martin, Matias, the manager and all the staff! Crazy.

The food was amazing again-esp the starter–fresh salmon wrapped around avocado and cream cheese and drizzled with passion fruit syrup—OMG. They gladly subed salad for potatoes to go w/my lomo–which was amazing–Me happy eater.

I intended to go to dance at Veruta after–but back in the luxurious suite–I’m one happy, full and sleepy gal.

Martin’s parents immigrated to AR after WW2-from Croatia. He’s been a pro football player–played big time and made big money–also blew out his knees and had 2 surgeries–needs another–can’t play now–but has this lovely restaurant and also an import/export biz–owns a house—supports his x and 2 kids. He’s so cute–wish he was 50 or 60 something instead of 30 something.

He looks so much like Bruno makes me want to take Bruno there to meet him–they would like each other I am sure.

1:30 am–I think I am okay to read a bit and sleep. Veruta will be there tomorrow. What a great, glorious day! Chino, I am living and enjoying my life as full out as I can!

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Three Strikes, You’re In

Strike One: Monday night class and milonga at Villa Malcomb. I took a taxi and was overcharged. Never mind, it evens out at strike 3. I was late and the class was underway. I didn’t recognize Herman for a few minutes–he had shaved and cut his hair! OMG. So different. I elected to watch–I can easily do the follow part and I would be an extra lead. But it’s a sacada sequence and I am eager to try it.

Herman takes an opportunity to greet me. The Milonga starts and eventually he comes to dance with me. Wow that was such fun. After he kisses me multiple times on the cheek and I’m feeling good. I get a chance to lead milonga and also have great fun.(and attract some attention–who is this old lady dancing milonga like she knows what she is doing and having fun too!) I’m ready to go before it’s over and sudddenly there is Chino! My poor sick friend. He’s there to pick up stuff from his milonga the night before. He gives me a ride home on his motorcycle (YES!!!!) and I give him some silver spray for his bad throat. Altogehter a blessed evening–except for the mosquitoes in the night—ugh.

Strike Two: Tuesday at Lunallena a practica hosted by the lovely Frenchwoman–beautiful and kind–everybody loves Dani. First half hour only men–like bees buzzing around Dani–finally women come and in an hour the place is packed-it turns out to be an amazing practica–theres wine/cheese/crackers etc–people are having fune–Micas and Anjie from Portland walk in! Surprise. They have baby girl in tow–shes 2 somethng and loves being there—the crowd entertains baby while parents dance. I lead a little but don’t dance til the end–then with Hernan who turns out to be amazing—and a folkloric teacher/performer. Tomorrow (Thurs) I’ll get a Zamba lesson–finally.And I think–a new friend to boot.

Strike Three: I connect with Sue, the psychotherapist gal I stayed with for a week on my sabbatical–lives in San Telmo–nice big apt. She wants to meet at milonga–she is learning–so we meet at Malcomb because they have a lesson. In the lesson we also meet Yvonne-from NYC–but originally fron Venezuela. I learn she discovered Tango in Berlin, and quite by accident. She’s a kick! After the lesson we three sit together along with another lovely young Argentinian woman–so two younger gals–two older ones–And this night I really wish I had more Spanish–they were just clucking and chatting the whole evening–occasionally remembering me and cutting me in by translation–ugh. But fun–so fun–we split a bottle of champagne! Twas a party for sure. I led the young Ar gal in one milonga–que lindo! she said!!  Yvonne and she danced a lot–Sue and me not so much–Finally Carl from HI who I’d met in Portland shows up and I get to dance.-it was nice.  I kept hoping one of the older milongroes would ask–but no such luck–too many young pretty skinny gals in the room! Some things never change, regardless the country you’re dancing in. Mikas from Portland stopped to say hi before leaving. I enjoyed the locals dance a little salsa and bachata–One older gal clearly knew what she was doing–fun to see. I step out the door and a guy says-“Taxi?”  I say “Yes” climb in the open door and we’re off. But on arrival at Lunallena I have only a 100 peso note–and 12 in change–the bill is 27pesos–AND HE HAS NO CHANGE–SO, very kindly and generously and with not a smidge of irritation, refuses money–I insist he take at least the small stuff–then he insists on opening my door–he gives a sweet hug (was that the payment?) and suddenly my hair–long hair–is caught in something on him and he has to disentangle–hahahahah–it was a funny, awkward schene–but he said something about tango–you had a nice night dancing tango–que lindo–beautiful–don worry about this –just enjoy your evening. It was like–his offering to the tango gods. Sweet. Strike three and you are HOME, baby!

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She’s Italian

German said “She’s Italian,I heard her talk.”  He would know–he now speaks Italian, which he said was easy for him, Spanish, French, English and some Croatian too! OMG! All that and he’s a musician–plays drums, vibraphone and I dunno what else–and dances tango. That last for his living.  She’s Italian–but you couldn’t tell by looking–maybe 5’7 or 8″ – slender, black ski mask with holes for mouth and eyes and nostrels—white plume across top of head, like a mohawlk, but feathery. Red netish clingy fab at neck, and low-waist middrift and on legs-otherwise, black leatherish-looking shiny fabric short skirt hung low and skimpy top, high heels and long black gloves. Could pass for a super-heroine perhaps? But–there she was, in Palermo Soho-sitting outside at a cheap, street cafe with a guy who looked oddly normal in dress–jeans and a sport shirt. And there we were-reacting but acting like we weren’t.  Now I wish I’d just asked: is this a costume? are u in a play? are you making a statement?  Then I thought–what’s she covering up with the mask?

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Sunday Supper on Soler in BA

It occurred to her, after some waiting and some Malbec, that this visit may not be so much about dancing-
but, perhaps, about everything but dancing. German was to come and they’d go to Viva La Pepa-but somehow wires crossed and he thought the message she’d sent the night before about not going out because of the sore throat, was from this night. So there she was all dressed up and nowhere to go. Of course she could go alone and she had before, but not this trip-not yet. So she found her Spanish books and began to study a little, a good use of time she reasoned.
In the morning she had finished a lovely novel called “Still life with Bread Crumbs,” a love story in the end-deftly crafted with excellent taste about an older woman, yet still quite vital, and a somewhat younger fellow. The characters and the story had great dignity and she wished she could one day write in this way-like Anna Quindlen.
After that she took a long walk to check out the local street fair in Palermo; but, sadly there was nothing of interest to see.
She stopped at a cafe on the walk back to her hotel to grab a meal as she hadn’t yet eaten that day and it was late , 5pm or–17:00 in Buenas Aires. She was still adjusting to the time thing. The salmon and the Quilmes were great, really hit the spot. But, all the while she was eating a strange fellow haunted her. He was not tall–maybe 5’8″ at most-very lean and wore no shirt–his pants were tattered and dirty and he had no shoes. He had a short beard and looked a bit like he could play “Jesus.” He stood in the street and dared traffic to hit him. He pointed at cars and people. He glared at me from across the road, his head cocked. He wandered from one side of the intersection to the other and sometimes stood in the center of the road, mouthing words but she heard none. She wondered if she should offer him her supper, but was a little anxious to get close. She asked the waitress about him and learned the neighbors see him as harmless as he’s not aggressive. They think he’s drugged out or skitzi–or both. He lives thru a doorway across the street from the restaurant where she sat outside, the lone customer at that late Sunday hour. As the sun receded, he went into his place and returned with a bright orange t-shirt which he donned and continued his practice. He is the Garasene demoniac, she thought-and wished she could cast out his demons and set him free. But since God didn’t give her that charge, she finished her supper and went her way to her milonga class.  It wasn’t fabulous -hard to do  agreat class for 6 people ranging from 2 weeks experience to 14 yrs–but at least she was moving. Happily the fan in her little 3rd story room decided to work again. Thank god for such favors! Now, could God please recall all the mosquitoes?

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Date with German

Tonite German(Herman) came to collect me and we walked to a nearby place for beers and some milanesa. Yummy. I love this guy–he’s 27-a musician, plays a number of instruments, travels the world teaching dance, also djs. Love this guy–and he’s so kind to me-very dear. Tonite we talked about family and the importance of family–most important–and life after death. We talked about the terrible economy here and how it’s the same around the world—rich get richer–etc. He invite me next sunday to family dinner to meet his dad and family. Happy me. Now I am really looking forward to having lesson with German. Still have sore throat so will sleep tonight. Tomorrow is street fair in Palermo and in evening is Viva La Pepa milonga. my friend Chino is co-organizer. I must go–and German will come to take me. Happy in BsAs.

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BsAs in 27 hrs

I’m very grateful for mileage plans -thanks Alaska-but mileage tickets can be hard on the body! This time it

was three flights and 27 hrs point to point-Portland to BsAs via Las Vegas and Mexico City. Only two flights is much better and less exhausting–but this way-incredibly cheap. I arrived with a painful left leg which developed en route–too much sitting I suspect. Prohibitive at first but better today–sleep is the best healing mode–sleep also great for the sore throat I awoke with today-Thursday-not sure if I picked up on plane or from friend Chino who met me at airport, as Chino had sore throat too! Alas. So limit play time so far–just RandR.  Luna llena, my petite tango hotel is the same–love it here–Once change–now there are four tango classes here a week instead of two–big bonus!  Friend Chino is now co-organizer of a big sunday milonga–I am looking forward to this! Other friends stat t check in–by and by I’ll make it to the dance floor. Meanwhile, lovely supper at a nearby place–hot and sultry here so I sat outside in sidewalk section. Other patrons very friendly and helpful. Met and chatted with two charming young people–Joseph and Ailine–he’s in fabric biz and she’s in law school. They are Jewish so we had a great chat. Joseph wanted to have me do facepainting at a kids event in couple days–but alas–didn’t bring facepaints! I will try to find some here-maybe friend Denna can bring mine from home when she comes in March. Good start–now to sleep and recover.

 

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