Tangobunny's Blog

Many years ago I saw “Never On Sunday” with the lovely Melina Macuri. She was dazzling: at once both technically proficient and magnetically gorgeous.  I wanted to be her for sure. But, to watch her, to experience her was a little piece of ecstasy, a dip into the fine art of screen acting.  Today I enjoyed another small dip-this time at the “Usually on Sundays” Ecstatic dance event at the Tiffany Center in SW  Portland.  I’d wanted to visit for more than couple of years, but preaching, also usually on Sunday morning, usually took precedence. Now that my Sundays are free, and responding to my friend, Michael’s kind offer to show me the ropes, I went.  I stood with Michael in the opening circle and got the basics including permission to sit at the side and watch, which is what I did right after Michael danced off to the other side of the room, retreating as it were. I counted over 150 souls in the circle, a good sized group which pretty much filled the large floor.  Most people seemed to carve out a small area and dance within it, while some meandered in and thru, making their way around the floor. Seldom were any discernible dance steps or moves to be seen, accepting one fellow who was clearly classically trained and couldn’t refrain from lovely pirouettes on occasion and always with toes pointed. Otherwise the floor seemed devoid of training or technique, but not of joy. Smiles of delight and pleasure were plentiful. After a while Michael came to check on me and I confessed that I have been dancing like this for years–at home in my kitchen or living room, but never with a room of strangers. “Yes, it’s quite intimate,” he replied.  The earlier music didn’t inspire me, so I didn’t feel bad sitting out, just observing. But it was changing now and Michael was inviting me to the floor to tango. Because it was not traditional tango music, it was edgy tango-and Michael and I dance well together, a good connection, fun and playful…….then he was moving in a linear fashion saying, “Let’s take a walk.” So we danced a little journey walk, he leading me, around the outside of the floor, pausing for a bit of tango here and there.  Back in our beginning place, I found I couldn’t pivot well, being barefooted on a hardwood floor, and went for my flat dance shoes. Like Goldilocks, someone was sitting in my chair. It was an older fellow I’d seen earlier who had been moving as able, given his walker, just shifting weight really; a beautiful and very tall woman dancing in front of and around him, helping him enjoy the music and movement. I though when I saw them, “What a dear person she is, how kind!” I excused myself as I reached for my shoes under the chair and assured him I didn’t need it and that he was fine. Then, armed (footed?) and ready, I was back with Michael to the end of the session. There was a closing circle where a few people shared their happiness at being there, and it was over.  We left together and headed downstairs. I’d gotten Michael’s book and wanted him to sign it for me. I think it’s amazing to have finished a book and had it published. Now that I’m into the book, the amazement turns to admiration and deep respect. We said goodbye at the door and headed in opposite directions. I’m grateful to have been introduced to ecstatic dance, though it may turn out not to be my public dance genre in the end. Even so, thanks to Michael, the ecstatic tango was most satisfying.

Martin Maldonado and Maurizio Ghella happened to be in DC this weekend-who knew?-teaching workshops and then tonight, dancing a performance at the Eastern Market milonga. After a full day of hanging out with sons Steve and David at the mansion and former home of Marjorie Post-basking in a beautiful spring day in the lush gardens and wandering thru the opulently appointed rooms with their seemingly endless collections of delicate, rare and very expensive trinkets—-dropping into a fancy silent auction to support a local elementary school at the DC Press Club where i “won” several items and dropped  a small bundle in support of a good cause……I took the metro to Eastern Market. I didn’t dance much–the crowd wasn’t much more friendly than the last time I was there–couple years ago–but I did bump into Holly, formerly from Portland and I did dance  a little milonga. At one point I counted nearly 4o women sitting around while the floor was crowded with dancing couples–and only 10 guys hanging around-probably not wanting the navigation challenge on the crowded dance floor. But the main event and the reason I came was Martin and Mauricio—and they were worth the effort.  What sets these two guys apart is-well–that they are two guys dancing together–BUT, also their great connection,control, strength and technique–all enhanced by their uniquely brilliant musicality! Wow…The first piece was like a tango ballet–the third, a wonderful nuevo milonga danced with hutspa; and the last–the encore-not really a tango–but a modern dance with tango moves–poignant–you could hear a pin drop-it was mesmerizing.

While visiting my son I’m also checking out the tango scene. Last time I tried, only once, the crowd wasn’t very welcoming. But at last Saturday’s afternoon practica at the MLK library, everyone was friendly. Just delightful for the visiting dancer. Sadly, Tuesday night’s milonga was much less so. The group felt closed, the floor was sticky . . . so I left early. Hoping to find more welcoming places at week’s end.

Nice dinner tonight with my friends here in Santa Fe and at a lovely restaurant—Lili and Hugo and their teenage kids Luci and Nico and finishing way after midnight!–Earlier today I had a wonderful time with my dear friend Silvio–sightseeing in the town and sharing a lovely five course fish lunch! with vino too! Then we went to his school and I worked with his students–fun day. In the evening I went with Lili to her class–a college class on drama–and I did a workshop with the students–lots of fun! So–a very beautiful and rich day–rich in food and experiences and FRIENDS! Tomorrow I will prepare transportation to return to BsAs so I can fly on Saturday morning to D.C. I leave with a heavy heart but also with hopes and intentions to return soon. God willing, I will do it!

Today I arrived in BsAs and hung out with friend Denna until she made connection with her ride to the international airport and journey home. I took a taxi to Chino’s place as he’s invited me to stay the one night I needed to regroup fro Santa Fe. But, sister-in-law Diane connected on facebook to let me know the sad news of my older brother Ed’s death yesterday. Now I’m in the midst of a sleepless night and decision about returning to USA for the funeral in Virginia.. I’ve said all along this trip to Argentina is more about the people than the dancing, and that that was okay with me. I just didn’t expect so little dancing. But, there’s always another milonga, si?

And when we awoke at 5:30 a.m. it was still raining–so we said to each other, friend Denna and I, “We won’t be going birdwatching today!” So, we called the front desk at Loi Suites in Iguazu to ask them if our guide had called to cancel, but no. So we asked them to call to check. But, they said–NO you won’t be going in this rain. So, we settled back down for more sleep. At 6:30 a.m. the phone rings–the guide awaits in the lobby! We jumped out of bed and into our clothes and hustled down. I was careful to wear a long sleeved shirt and long pants, in case of mosquito attack. And we brought our raincoats–natch! However, for the first time in three weeks on our journey around Argentina–we didn’t put on sunblock–Sunblock! It’s raining cats and dogs–surely we’ll have to abort this trip before long. But–no. The sun came out before long-and the day was beautiful and sunny and bright. We tromped thru the mud to catch views of exotic birds, our guide using his recorded bird songs to call birds nearby. What a trip! We were treated to the guidance and expertise of an expert birdman and his trusty assistant. Then we dove thru the rainforest past the national park to a farm, slipping and sliding down the dirt roads all the way. The four-wheel-drive fared well and we were in good driving hands. Once at the farm we were passed thru a green field with pigs and various birds til we reached the great Iguazu river. We met our kayak guide and his crew. And we were off down the river in hard shell kayaks–Denna and our lead guide in one, the assistant and me in another, and the kayak guide and the equipment in one which looked like a picture of an American Indian canoe. We paddled for a long while in the sun before we reached a tiny island and stopped for a tasty lunch. .  Here we saw the first of many amazing butterflies. I began to feel heat from my face and realized the damage that was coming from my forgetfulness. My face and ankles were burned. So, on the trip back I used the hood of my raincoat to try to limit the exposure. But most of the damage was already done. I had worried about yellow fever as I’d not gotten the shot. I’d been wiser to worry about the sun.

Two nights ago we arrived in a place called Villa La Angostura–near Barilochi in the lake district of AR near Chile. Today we(Denna Manning from Medford Meth church) and I went kayaking for couple hrs with a guide, had a lunch on a beach–pristine–no other people–and then paddled back–After a rest of maybe an hr–we went for a motor tour around the Angostura area (14k residents and a big tourist destination for those wanting to boat, hike or ski) and then we hiked for maybe an hour or more to get down to lakeside–had some mate (with a lesson on mate codigos) and sweet breads–then hiked back–the forest was so lush like on imagines in Costa Rica. Rained on the hike back–so I got very wet but did a rendition of Singing in the Rain once we hit the paved road and the car was in sight! (relieved there was no more up-hill)!! Tired at 7pm after a full day–we started at 10 a.m. Had dinne at 8:30 in the hotel-very nice service. And to bed before 10-crazy tired.
Today we head out for the airport in a nearby town–fly to BsAs and
from there we fly to Iguazu falls in the north near the Brazil border. Eleanor Roosevelt once said Iguazu falls makes our Niagra look like a dripping faucet! Hahaha! Amazing sights coming up the next two days. Then Denna returns to USA and I will get back to dancing!

The fill name is San Carlos De Bariloche, but most just say “Bariloche.”  It’s a town of about 130K nestled in the mountains near Chile and set on a lake which leads to many other lakes. So this is the “lake region.”  The lake on which Bariloche sits is, according to our guide today, about the size of BsAs. Big! Today we had a leisurely guided drive all around the region, stopping at several places for pictures. Then we took a ride on a chair lift! Now, I’m a person who gets nervous on a ladder!  Now we are in this ski lift swinging chair thing high above the ground, climbing to the top of the mountain. Yikes. Breathe….try to relax.  The mild terror was worth the view, which was of all the lakes, islands, a fancy schmancy hotel called LLAO LLAO, built in the 40s by some wealthy europeans who couldn’t go back to Germany to vacation, so built a place reminding them of the castles at home. Now this hotel is used by the wealthiest Argentinians, mostly from BsAs, and wealthy europeans. LLAO LLAO means sweet tasting–apparently from the original natives who called a mushroom which grows on trees, llao llau. So the hotel and indeed the region around it are now called llao llao (pronounced shao shao). After our car tour we picked up luggage at our hotel and headed downtown to see the cathedral with our driver, leaving the guide free for the rest of his day. We were unable to get inside to enjoy the stained glass as the church was locked! Surprised me as most churches in BsAs are always open. We took a liking to Gabriel, our driver, who told us the story of meeting his wife three days after landing in Bariloche, at a dance. They have three beautiful children and seem a lovely, happy family. The wife is a schoolteacher-elementary age. We inited Gabriel to share lunch at a restaurant he’s recommended, Family Weis (picture of a German guy(maybe Swiss) outside in those short leather pants!  Lunch was super–I had trout from the lake I could see thru the window of the restaurant and a sample of their local beer, Denna had venison and spatzel with wine, and Gabriel had gnochi relleno(which he explained for me means “stuffed”). After lunch we headed out around the lake to our place for the next two nights, a quaint and friendly place right on the lake called Las Balsas. The beach is beautiful and just steps from the hotel porch. Later I hope to take a stroll sans shoes. As Gabriel said, now I am enjoying the life!

Yesterday t was about trusting the horse on a very narrow ledge on the side of the mountain–I did–we survived–Today it was about trusting the cramp-ons! Ques es esto! They are spokey metal soles yu tie onto your hiking shoes so u can walk on the glacier ice! Wow. The metal spikes dig into the ice to keep u stable – the keep u from slipping off the edge and falling down, down, down into the blue fiord of Patagonian ice. Not a good idea–SO–trust the cramp-ons. Walk flat footed, like marching, digging into the ice. Walking uphill–make ur feet like a duck. Walking downhill, keep your knees bent and feet parallel–but apart–so the crampons don’t touch each other. Crossing a slope of ice-keep feet pointed in opposite directions. Then–trust the crampons–it’s a bit like marching. The reward after getting all the way down to the blue pools–very scary–but our amazing guides encouraged me: You can do it! The reward was getting to stand in a blue glacier ice cave. AMAZING-FANTASTICO!!! WOWZAH!!
And arriving back at the fancy hotel in Charlton, I reward myself with a little sit in a warm jacuzzi and a great massage. I like being retired! Mucho gusto! Muchas gracias, mis querios hijos! Te amo!