Dancing on White Water

Picture this 5 foot one grammy squished into a wet suit and life jacket and helmet and rafting white waters in the rivers near Bariloche! After the initial emergency instructions..esp the go left one where mama Bunny was to jump to the lap of Denna, holding tight to the oar and then grab the rope on the side of the raft . . . . .I was a bit terrified, I must say! Pero”’our ride thru rapids called Little Slide, Deep Throat and Ecstacy . . . .among others, were all good with no emergency tactics required. I got very wet in the first rapid, but declined to join the young bucks in the raft when the invitation to jump in was given by our super guide, Mathias. After two hrs on the river we finished at the Chilean border with a rapid called International! Then after a hike up a very steep hill, we changed back to dry duds and got a ride to our luncheon site at the ranch house nearby. Denna and I sat outside as we had brought a box lunch as others sat inside the little luncheon house and enjoyed yet another asado. We enjoyed horses, pigs, chickens, a couple of hungry kittens and beautiful birds in the plethora of trees and flowers all around us. Que lindo! Gracias por todo!  After a Loooong ride back to the hotel in the van dropping our companions on the way–we regroup for dinner and head out. Our driver points us in a great direction and we have a super meal of melted cheese with bacon,onion and tomato, lomo and papas de fritas–and of course Malbec!  Mui bien!  Taxi back to hotel, picking up a nice chocolate on the way at a lovely chocolate shoppe–and we finish the day. Tomorrow starts early again….again!  But, I vant to sleeeep!

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Falling For Argentina

Stuff happens in threes, right? So my first fall was in BsAs o the dance floor no less. This quy asked me to dance salsa–actually he asked Yvonne first and she said “No,” and then he asked me–He seemed so disappointed and was pleading so I went to dance with him. Sadly he didn’t know how to do salsa nor how to lead!!  So he was throwing me all around and I was trying to catch some glimmer of connection–NOT possible. And pretty soon, laughing away, he throws me right down!  He was so strong! “Okay, fella, that’s enough!”  (My pride was salvaged and my spirits by a great partner a bit later….thanks be to God!)  When Denna came we were having a bit of lunch in the hotel restaurant. The chairs were pedestal chairs, as were the tables. We we chatting and I leaned towards her, reaching for something–to my left, and suddenly found myself falling to the floor!  Poor Denna was wide eyed watching me go. I wasn’t hurt in either of these falls–just my pride.  Then we went paddling on the river and the Beagle Strait out of Ushuaia!  On the first day we went treking first, had lunch(a picnick offered by the guides) then went to paddle in an inflatable canoe.  Denna and I were in the front and there were six of us plus the guide. After two and a half hours on the water–we came to the shore and I was first to get out onto the rocks at water edge, with just a few inches of water. I had my paddle in my right hand and stepped out okay, but once there, suddenly my footing slipped on the rocks and I couldn’t catch myself and kind of sat back and laid back into the water. The guides were quick to yank me up but I tasted the salty water and was soaked! I did come up smiling tho and again, no harm done–just the pride. But I kept wondering, why am I falling? I’m a dancer and I have great balance—-usually!  But stuff comes in threes–and so I must be done with this kind of falling. Nevertheless, the deeper  get into this country, the more I am falling in love with it and the people. And I thought I’d already done that! One cannot see the future, though, and I have a feeling there’s more “falling in love” to come!

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Just Another Day in B.A.

Great day in BsAs with multiple pluses! Successfully changed money on the blue, delivered a box of stuff to Chino to hold for me while I am traveling in Patagonia and–made a date for tomorrow(sweet), had a nice lunch with Denna–steak salad–Yum!, got my new phone working after another visit to “Personal” store, and: wonder of wonders–fund a place to get a fill for my nails tomorrow! Then–all topped off with a fancy dinner and tango show at Gala Tango in San Telmo–really one of the best I have seen and I have seen many by now–This one had folkloric dance as well as tango musicians, singers and dancers–19 performers and a bagillion costumes–all very well performed. And a sweet and very cute young guy from Patagonia sat next to us and we had a nice chat! And–Denna and I succeeded in slipping our big uneaten steak into a bag to take home for Uma–Chino’s dog and her baby boy–now bigger than Uma herself—The world is just nice today. Oh–one of the performers came and got me to dance on the stage after the show–that was fun too:-)

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Dancing in Socks Works!

Denna arrived today from Oregon-we had pedicures–2 for $26. American! Imagine! Then we had dinner with German, my friend–sushi–and went with him to Bruno’s milonga. There was a great singer–playing guitar and singing old familiar songs–in English–songs from the US. (Don’t worry, Be Happy–Over the Rainbow)–He was ark skinned, dressed in old jeans and had big bushy hair and a great smile–what a delight! And Chino was there and came to dance with me-that was super–tho I had to dance in socks cuz didn’t bring shoes—and wondered how was my balance because we had wine at dinner–anyway, I enjoyed it–and Chino didn’t complain!

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Tuesday on Arevalo Calle

Lunallena(full moon) is on Arevalo street close to the corner of Soler. Today I overslept and was 5 min late to look at an apt for my last 3 weeks in April–but the guy didn’t show–after 15 min I figured I had wrong time, place or day–so went to get coffee. When home I checked email and he said he waited til 12:30! Maybe he was inside–tho he said to wait outside??? Oh well–there are other options–maybe I can see this one another year. Meanwhile the little abdominal pains I have been having for a couple of days kicked up to some more abdominal distress–something I ate or drank?? Enough to make me want to take it easy for a while. Where’s the pepto bismol? Later today I must find comfy closed-toe shoes and a suitcase. Enough effort for one day. Then a lesson here at 8pm w/new teacher ay Lunallena. Hope to try it. I met him last week-seems very friendly.

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Dos Milongas

Yesterday, Sabado(Saturday)-Yvonne and I went to two milongas together. Well–one, the first, was a practica. at DNI, a local tango school. I had heard of this place but never yet visited.  So we went and were impressed with the plant and operation. Very pretty. There’s a small shop for tango shoes and clothes which seemed always busy; a cute little garden cafe serving good coffee and pastries as well as sandwiches and salads. Then up the winding staircase there are various practice rooms and on the top (fourth) floor-a big enough room for a practica–tho it was quite crowded after a while. And hot.  I led one milonga set which was pretty good fun and drew some attention and positive nods from onlookers, which has happened a few times. Ivonne danced a bit more but didn’t seem to enjoy. Finally we left and headed for Glorietta, an outdoor milonga set in a huge gazebo in a little park. We both danced  several tandas before deciding to head back to the hotel. Yvonne was set on going to yet another milonga, but I elected to rest, which turned out to be a good thing because this is when I got the bad news about Charlie. Being home with some time to grieve was helpful though not much fun. Dancing at Glorietta was as before, the last trip here: the folks are mostly older, with just a few younger ones here and there. And the men are mostly average dancers–some just repeating the two figures they can do over and over. But some are a bit more sophisticated in a way, with a little more vocabulary but not the finesse and skill of really good leaders. So dancing there is like hanging out at the corner pub, I guess–with the ordinary folks of the village. It’s fun but one needs to hold one’s expectations re dancing in check. Oh, and the same guy who sang to me the whole time when I was there a few years ago–is still there–and still singing to every partner! He told me he knows more than a hundred songs by heart and has been singing them since he was five years old, listening to the radio. There’s gotta be a great back story there!
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Dinner Time in Buenos Aires

It’s delicious-Samara my very health conscious daughter, would approve: leftover bife chorizo(barbecued steak) and arugala salad–yum. It’s 1:00 a.m.! And this is within the normal dinner time range–Early diners may eat at 9pm–but 10 thru 1am is normal. Okay, 1am is  on the late side of that range-but restaurants are still serving–and especially at the milonga’s where food is served. Shows and orchestras there often don’t begin til 1 to 2 a.m. Yeah-it’s upside down–crazy and takes some getting used to but now my internal clock is reset. Bedtme is usually 4am or later–and breakfast–well, maybe 12 to 1pm. Tomorrow I’ll be challenged because I have to go in the morning to the British Hospital and try to get a yellow fever shot for my upcoming visit to Iquatsu Falls on the border of Brazil. Threat of nasty mosquitoes there. Since I am already covered with mosquito bites, clearly the bug likes my blood–seems the ones up north will probably want to feast on me too–so looking for the shot tomorrow–buying spray repellant too-and some closed toe shoes–already have plenty of bites on my feet, as well as everywhere else! Hoping to prevent the Iquatsu bugs from dining on me as I read they dine all day!

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There’s Always Another Milonga!

So if the night is not great–just wait. Now I wait because tonight was one of those—went to a practica my friend invited me–space was up a flight of narrow windy stairs with christmas lights attached to the handrail–festive–but space was small-too small -so not many could dance–my friend was working–99.9 % people were under 35–and they were out of water–the guy offered a glass from the sink–and I took it asking is it safe–his sassy reply was–I’ve been drinking it all my life–you’ll survive. Prob should have left at that point–but stayed a while–long enuf to greet Bruno, another friend—but he was soon busy chatting with a young girl–soon there was a show of sorts and folks sat on floor of the small dance room–guitarist/singer and a percussionist–stayed for 4-5 songs–hoping it would improve–then left for La Veruta–there, Sexteto Milonguero was playing–but didn’t start til 2:30am–I was seated way back–so no invitations to dance–band was good–6’4″ singer with long hair and toothy smile is still as arrogant as last time I saw him–music was pretty good—but not on par w/Otros Aires or Narcotango–both I’ll miss in March while traveling.  So best part of the evening was taxi ride home–The guy spoke italian–but not me–so it was simple talk–but when “Lets Fall in Love” came on radio he turned it up and we both sang! He said he danced tango–milonguero style–I think he was fliting–even kissed my hand as offered payment–hahahaha–I smiled entering Lunallena–and wait now for the next chance to dance.

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Best Laid Plans . .. gang aft aglee!

Planned to go to Veruta but after walking all over Ricoleta during the day, I was too tired. Anyway I had long facebook chat with German, my young dance teacher/D.J./ milonga organizer friend. I’m enjoying our growing friendship. Soon we’ll go to a jazz club and enjoy that common interest. So no dancing today after all. BUT a good day nevertheless. I found Ricoletta mall, had a great chat with a gal at the cachafaz coffee and alfajores stand who directed me to a guy who fixed my phone by inserting a new chip for just 20 pesos. She was covered with piercings and had a big colorful flower on right side of her neck. She was facile in English and very kind. She told me cachafaz is a Lunfardo word. It means crafty, rascally or cheeky. And the alfajores are some of the best I have eaten! So phone is fixed– and I charged it up at a local kiosk with time for texting–so ready now to begin connecting with friends here and in Santa Fe. So this is what happened: she makes a couple of calls and then writes an address for me on Santa Fe calle with a guy’s name-and the amount I’ll pay: $50.pesos–which is about five bucks. I grab a taxi and in just 5 minutes I am there-for 15 pesos. I find the address across the busy street where I have been dropped. It’s an wide opening off the street in a row of storefronts, leading to rows of shops on a couple different levels accessable by stairs. I walk around a bit and then pop into one of the shops-looks like it deals mainly in sexy sports clothes for men–an ask about he address. The attractive Argentinian tells me the place I want is upstairs on the next level in the back on the left with no sign, just the number. It was as he said. I rang the bell and a face soon appeared from behind the blinds. The place was tiny-about the size of a average bathroom back home. I asked for Martin-the young guy who opened the door stepped aside and a sleightly older one stepped out from the back room-also tiny space. With little language between us he knew what I needed when I showed him the message I got when turning the phone on. He took it and went to the back room while I waited on a small plastic stool in front near the door, leaning against the wall. It was almost an hour before he stepped out to show the chip and say “this is no good.” Then he made a call and I waited some more-all the while watching the younger guy skillfully working at his end of the back room on a makeshift desk made from hanging a board on the wall at desk height. He fixed maybe three phones while I watched–taking them apart and putting them back together again. Martin sent him out too while I waited so I don’t know if it was the boy working there or the delivery boy who brought my new Claro chip–What I thought was how skillful and clever this guy is–he’s found his niche and does it well–and I also wondered if the stacks of phones I was looking at were brought for fixing or were they stolen and reworked for resale? I’ll never know for sure but lad to have my phone working–and for just 2 bucks! (Vente-he said–which is 20 pesos–or about 2 dollars). Tomorrow I’ll give it a “test drive!”

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La Milonguita

It was such a nice surprise to receive a facebook message from Maria Olivera inviting me to join her and husband Gustavo at this Milonga. It was Ash Wednesday as it turns out, and the first time I didn’t impose ashes in many years. But, I did go to church-that is, to the milonga held on the church campus on Armenia calle across from La Veruta. It’s a beautiful setting and the floor was nice wood, tho a bit slick. After their amazing performance, Gustavo was kind to invite me to dance, and always the perfect gentleman had lovely words for me afterwards. Dancing with Gustavo is like dancing enveloped in a soft cloud, smooth as silk and gentle as gentle can be, yet one feels completely secure and safe.  Wow.  They had invited other friends as well, and I was allowed also to bring my friend Yvonne o it was a party atmosphere. One couple was from Italy–young dancers/teachers: Andrea De Domiicis and Helga Corpora. When the DJ played cumbia I taught him and we had great fun. Then they played merengue and we did it again! Very fun! Later he invited me for a tanda and that was also very nice. Andrea and Helga left while I was dancing but he made a special effort to come to me and say goodbye. I plan to go see them dance at the center on Sunday: Obelisco Milonga. Thank you Maria!

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